Spring Summer 2020 Couture

The Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 fashion week ended last week. I finally got a chance to scroll through the runway images and share my thoughts on the what i consider to be the highlights of some of the collections but also some of the not so stand out pieces.

I expect Haute Couture collections to be immaculate. The couture runway is a showcase of innovative, one-of-a-kind designs and exquisite craftsmanship. I’m sharing my honest thought on the six SS20 Haute Couture collections I reviewed.

Iris Van Herpen

Iris is probably one of the most revolutionary designers nowadays, she is known for combining traditional craftmanship and technology i.e. 3D printing, and her ability to bring fabric to ‘live’. The collections are usually inspired by collisions of humans and nature. This collection is titled ‘sensory seas’. The pieces fluttered and flowed in step with the models on the runways. However, I have to say the white dress with black chiffon fabric coming out of the pleats was not flattering (see the last picture below).

Valentino

Paolo Piccioli’s at Valentino is famous for his ability to create clean simple silhouette with a striking embellishment i.e. big bows, to mix unusual block vibrant colours and prints. This season he did it again successfully. Less voluminous pieces, more fitted pieces than before. I love the ruffling he did this season. While I do not love all of them, I certainly can appreciate the exquisite technique and vision for each piece.

Schiaparelli

It’s Daniel Roseberry’s second couture collection since he joined the house. Most looks appeared casual and suitable for day time occasions. There were some tailored cropped jacket paired with wide-leg pants, simple fitted dresses with gold beading around the rib cage which made reference to the iconic Schiaparelli’s skeleton dress. He brought back the voluminous cloud-like aesthetic which he showcased in the previous 2019 couture collection. Overall, I do not mind it. My favourite was the black plunging neckline slip dress with straps that curled and stood up. The fitting was perfect, the design was simple yet one-of-a-kind.

Givenchy

The collection was sublime and romantic. Clare Waight Keller’s was inspired by her love for gardens, hence it explained the gigantic hats, summer garden colours and ruffles that resembled flowers’ petals. She started the show with perfectly tailored white suits, showcasing her strength in tailoring. For the finale, She sent out Kaia Gerber in a white dress, Clare’s interpretation of a modern wedding dress. Scroll through the images to see my favourite pieces of the collection.

Dior

Unfortunately, I did not draw much inspiration from Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection this time. No doubt there was lots of delicacy and finesse in the lace appliques, knots, pleats and fringes. However, there seem to be a lot of design aesthetic repeats from the previous collections, such as the thin belts, nude colour tones, pleated silk chiffon dresses, and one shoulder asymmetrical necklines. Perhaps these are Maria’s aesthetic which suits her clients’ taste. Should that stop a designer from being innovative though? Nevertheless, Maria still won the audience’s approval by the feminist ideologist theme she picked for this collection.

Chanel

Sadly, I would describe Virgine Viard’s couture collection as simple, wearable but not necessarily memorable, lack of whimsy, wit and dazzle which Karl Lagerfeld used to bring for Chanel.

Her collection was inspired by Coco Chanel’s younger days as a school girl at an orphanage. Hence, the black shoes and chunky socks, lots black and white looks, which she drew reference to the uniform Coco worn at the orphanage. While I do not think the tulle layer over a tweed skirt aesthetic, which appeared multiple times, make sense (second pic below is an example), a few pieces were stunning such as the midi length dress with a turtle neck (first picture below). I am not a fan of the finale, which was a not-so-grand bridal look, a simple white blouse, a pleated skirt, a knee-length veil with school girls inspired shoes and socks. I do not mind the opening look (third picture below), classic Chanel’s tweed outfit never goes wrong.

What a collection to start the year! I skipped some collections in this review, including Guo Pei, Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, Ralph and Russo, since this article is getting too long. They produced some beautiful pieces too. I cannot wait to see more collections from these designers and be inspired. I hope you enjoy this article and see you guys at the next post.

All the images: vogue.com